Paradise Restored - Day Trippers Delight

Fiji is still recovering from some damage from the massive cyclone that came through this summer. The resorts are all still relaxing and a delight to holiday makers, but you notice some things are on the mend - thatched roofs are still waiting dried palms on top of the practical colourbond and the beach at Denaru has seen better days. As we had arrived in the miraculous days of sunshine after much rain, the water was murky so there was no point snorkelling off the beach at our hotel, we decided to head out to an island.

We went with the Combo Cruise with South Sea Cruises, which included 3 hours on the island, lunch and coral viewing in a semi-submersible and then a cruise around the Mamanuca islands. They also include the coach transfers from the hotel, so it really couldn't be simpler. Had it not been Sunday, there would have been a traditional Fijian Meke too.

The island looked exactly what we were after as we pulled up to get onto the transfer boat - as we'd not used the resort beach or the ocean, we were all quite excited to get some ocean swimming in and play on the sand.

As we walked to the main area, I'll admit I was a little disappointed. The facilities are very simple, and I discovered later even simpler after a 2 story building was blown away, never to be seen since in the recent cyclone.

However, we were quickly whisked off onto the submersible. While the kids loved it, I was a little disappointed by the lack of colour of the coral and the minimal fish life. After our 15 minute tour, we headed back to shore. My husband and eldest went off on a guided snorkelling tour with the marine biologist, who had earlier mentioned that for those staying the full day, there was an activity of building 'fish houses' with the broken coral on the shore, so that the fish could have places to live after the cyclone ripped through their habitat too.

My younger son and I took snorkels and fins down to the beach and snorkelled on our own, as I figured he might get too tired. Here is were everything changed. The water really was crystal clear, and it worked it's magic. My judgment at the lack of five star facilities was charmed to see what enjoyment and natural beauty was really on offer.

The snorkelling was brilliant! There was plenty of sea life to watch, big and small. There were brightly coloured tropical fish darting in and our of tiny holes, big fish and even in schoals.
The South Sea island also has a kids club, so you can go on the guided snorkelling if you have a little one.

After an hour, we headed back to meet the others and have lunch - there were salads galore, fruit and a very tasty BBQ of beef, chicken and fish. The whole time you are on the island, there is an beer, wine and soft drinks on hand, not just at lunch. We ate at tables under shade cloths on the sand, and I watched a staff member carefully cement back one of the garden beds that had been ripped apart. It made me realise how much damage had been done and how seamlessly the rebuild was.

The guided snorkelling had also been a huge success, and my eldest told me knowledgably all the coral types and fish he'd seen. He was very taken with the 'magic' coral that turned white when you touched it. We all agreed that we'd judged too harshly and too superficially on arrival, and this place was brilliant!

While my partner went off for a quick massage on the beach (the tables set up under a cabana overlooking the ocean), we went back for more snorkelling and I watched enviously as some full day visitors went for a kayak that we wouldn't have time for.

All the activities are included in your cruise price, except scuba diving - if you don't like the ocean there is a small pool, which I found strangely popular.

There was enough space for everyone to find hammocks, deck chairs or beanbags. There were a lot of smiles from the guests and if you have been on a mainland resort, it's nice to have a more remote island feel.  They even sell souvenirs and the proceeds go to a local orphanage.

Nature has been harsh to this tiny island, but it hasn't lost its charm. It's not a five star resort but it does offer everything you could want.  I was very sad when it was our turn to leave and head back on the boat to see the other islands.

The cruise is the transfer vessel making its rounds, but it is worth doing as you see a lot of the other island resorts, plus two residential islands, and the commentary gives you details of history, trivia and an idea of what island life entails. I liked that it wasn't just tourists coming and going on the boat, there were a lot of Fijians, making their way from one place to another.

 It was funny, after spending such a sensational day on the South Sea Island, the luxury resorts that had been out of the budget of our family of five didn't have quite the same appeal they'd had in the brochures. Our large villa on Denaru had been the perfect choice for us, and the magical day on our tiny island had lived up to it's promise and offered so much more.

Practicalities:
South Sea Cruises http://www.ssc.com.fj/default.aspx

Please note, we paid for our own cruise but I really loved this day so wanted to promote it. It was one of the most enjoyable days we had in Fiji. I am reminded how quickly we get used to 5-star generic resorts, and how it can taint our experiences and enjoyment. The island has a 16 bed backpacker dorm, and I'm already trying to work out how to book the whole thing out for a lupine adventure. In the course of an hour, I swung from thinking I'd made a big mistake for our last day, to wishing we had more time and wanting to return. This little island experience offers everything you could want for a wonderful day, but with a peaceful simplicity, which is relaxing in itself. On a tiny island, it's just what you want. The initial criticisms are a reflection of me, more than anything else, and I loved that the experience wooed me over. There's hope for me yet!

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